Kitchen Musings

Tales of culinary obsessions

Meeting the Picasso of Pastry

May 24th, 2008 · 56 Comments · Desserts, Macaron Chronicles

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Weeks ago, I was lamenting the fact that I got an email from the French Pastry school in Chicago that I did not make the selection in an exclusive class taught by Pierre Hermé. A week after that, I got a phone call from them telling me that I was on the waiting list and a spot had opened up – did I want it? Heck, of course! I tried so hard to keep my voice calm but I remember barely squeaking out the information needed to reserve the slot. Apparently there were 2000 entries – hmm… I wonder how far down the waitlist I was – but who cares!

That was in the 1st week of March. Can you imagine the difficulty of containing my excitement and waiting 2 ½ months for this class? Fortunately I was kept busy with a new job assignment, the business and a visit from my brother.

You can’t believe how paranoid I got about getting sick or about flight cancellations or whatever might prevent me from attending the class. However, I did arrive at the French Pastry school in full chef’s uniform and was greeted by the school director who instructed me to go up to the second floor. Three tables were arranged in a U shape where I saw about 10 students seated and having coffee or tea.

I was informed that they had our chef’s jackets made especially for the occasion and I eagerly looked for my name. It was then that I saw him…suddenly appearing and walking over to the table to greet the students at the tables, and then he headed my way. I managed to smile …he smiled back and greeted “Bonjour”, then gave my hand a firm hand shake… and all I could get out was a weak “Bonjour”… as he moved on to the next person.

Gah! I was suddenly reminded of Meg Ryan (Annie) in the movie, “Sleepless in Seattle”, where she flew all the way from Baltimore to Seattle to meet Tom Hanks (Sam) and all she could say was a weak “Hello”. I am an idiot!

Over a breakfast of black-truffle eggs, bread and rose-litchi jam; I continued to ogle him as he took the chair right across the table from me. Luckily for me, his assistant Michaél was seated right next to me and spoke perfect English; in addition, he was very friendly. I sure did not waste any time and grilled him on the technique of their macarons. PH uses Italian meringue in his macarons and I complained that it was too sweet. Michaél agreed that it is indeed sweet but that the shell is balanced by the filling. I told him that I was giving him the benefit of the doubt until I tasted them (Quite cheeky, aren’t I?).

I eventually found my voice and talked to Pierre. I told him that I had made his white truffle macaron from his PH10 book and that the result was awful. Could it be my truffle paste? He agreed with me then and related that it took him a while to find the right truffle paste for it. He said that for our class he has included a black truffle macaron recipe as well as a foie gras one. Oh my God… I couldn’t wait!

Although Pierre spoke English, he was most comfortable speaking in French. Chef Jacquy Pfeiffer, owner of the French Pastry School, was on hand to quickly translate. (Incidentally, my lessons with Helen helped tremendously because the language did not sound completely foreign and I was able to pick up on a lot of new French vocabulary). We were initially asked to introduce ourselves. I’d say we were an interesting bunch – there were a couple of pastry chefs from some high-profile places like Spago, Payard and Robuchon. There was also another food blogger in the class, Mitzi of Yummy in the tummy blog – such a sweet lady!

The class started with PH’s power point presentation regarding his ideology on how he runs his business:
1. Quality of his ingredients
2. Attention to detail. He hates perfection but loves detail. He confers that if you look for perfection you will never be satisfied. He continually desires to make his offerings interesting and different from others. Every patisserie in Paris makes macarons but his macarons stand out in terms of detail.
3. Packaging – enough said.
4. He encouraged us to always think of how we can do things better. His recipes are never staid. He keeps on tweaking them.

His products are classified in three categories:
1. Classics like tarts and millefeuilles
2. Fetishes – which are his flavor combinations
Ie. Ispahan, Chloe, Sarah, Elise
3. Creations – how it is interpreted – Emotion, Miss Gla Gla

 

 

 

Before PH started delving into his recipes, Chef Pfeiffer informed us that we were having a test at the end of the class on how to properly say the word macaron. “Maca-RAWN” with that tricky French R sound.

We had a total of 12 creations, one of them not yet released.

 But these included the following :

 

Black Truffle Macaron
Emotion Depayse (green tea , red bean, grapefruit)
Emotion Ispahan (rose, litchi, raspberry)
Ispahn Entremet
Chocolate and Foie Gras Macaron
Macaron Ispahan
Macaron Satine (Orange, passion fruit, cream cheese)
Miss Gla’Gla Ispahan glace
Revelation ( tomato puff pastry, black olive, olive oil and vanilla mascarpone)
Tarte Ispahan
Vanilla Tart
New Creation 2008
 

 

It was confusing at first as we jumped from recipe to recipe while completing each component at a time. We started with the geleés and the English cream that went with the buttercreams. Most of PH’s macarons use ganache, but his Ispahan uses buttercream.
I’m sure it will be tedious for most readers if I get into too much details in this post. I selected a few pictures and some captions to share with you a gist of the class. Warning: there is an overabundance of the Ispahan creations – they are absolutely heavenly!!!
 

Preparing the Tart dough
 

PH preparing the sugar dough for the Vanilla Tart. He told us to  mix the dough only a little so the tart dough will not puff too much.

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Preparing the Litchi Gellee for the Tarte Ispahan.

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Delicious Chocolate and Raspberry Sable we had during the morning break. Pierre directed us to undercook them. The interesting crunch witihin the cookie comes from Fleur de sel.

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PH getting down and dirty with the Ispahan macaron batter. He said there was no spatula big enough to mix the batter properly.

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Piping the macaron batter for different creations.

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My first taste of PH’s macarons. Passion fruit and milk chocolate. It was the moment of truth too – the shells were not sweet at all. They had the perfect texture. Though I certainly love my French Meringue method, I am curious again to try sucre cuit again. 

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PH weighs each component of his Emotion creations. This is because the balance of flavors are very important. Such attention to detail!

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Putting the different Ispahan creations together. It is important to select raspberries of the same size.

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Shaping the vanilla mascarpone cream for the tart. Poured into warmed rings so it can be lifted out easily.

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Taking care of Miss Gla Gla (gla gla is what the French say when they are cold)

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Pierre with a margarita in hand during cocktails. We headed out to Art Smith’s house (Oprah Winfrey’s former personal chef) for Mexican food.

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DAY 2

Most activities on the second day were assembling all the creations.

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Working on the Ispahan tarte.

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PH  pointed out that the tart shell should be really browned otherwise you will taste the flour.

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Finishing up the Foie Gras macaron. Pierre said that his idea of a perfect macaron should have a lot of filling.

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Rolling out the tomato puff pastry in the laminator.

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Ispahan Emotion

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Ispahan Entremet

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I asked Pierre what he did with the litchi juice leftover from the can. He answered that  to take a bath in it was a dream of his. Someone commented:"With rose petals?" The class burst out in laughter.

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The finished Vanilla Tarts with the trademark PH logos.

The next few pictures are from the dessert buffet that immediately followed the class . We started with some champagne. But seriously, I think it was pretty cruel to have us eat all the desserts in one hour. I mean look at the spread!

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My favorite macaron turned out to be the foie gras macaron. This is not savory; rather, it is sweet. How this combination worked simply blew my mind. Pure genius!!! I was not able to finish a whole Ispahan entremet…my tummy was pretty close to screaming – Enough!!

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I was able to take four macarons home to the "Hungry" hubby to try. I tried to take him the Ispahan Entremet but it did not survive in my purse as Mickael said it wouldn’t. :(

And of course , the class will not be complete without a picture with the man himself and his brilliant assistant Mickael. :D

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56 Comments so far ↓

  • Katie K

    Wow, Veronica, what a dream come true! The foie gras macaron sounds incredible. Did he hint that he might open up a shop in the U.S.?

  • kj

    oh lucky, lucky you!!! That buffet is making my mouth water. Just wow, what an experience.

  • My Sweet & Saucy

    What a chance of a lifetime! The desserts are beyond amazing looking! Simply gorgeous!

  • Susan at Sticky,Gooey,Creamy,Chewy

    What an experience of a lifetime! You must have been over the moon! I'm sure you got some great inspiration in addition to the great food!

  • Meeta

    Oh my I think that is every Daring baker girl's dream come true. So glad you had a great time and thank you for sharing these moments with us too!

  • Hannah

    Wow… It's all just breathtaking.. Thank you for such a thorough report on your classes!

  • Lori

    Too much detail, what, are you kidding. I read every word because that is SO COOL. Not to mention you crack me up with the nervousness. WHich I dont even think that I could have muttered Bonjour!

    Those pastries are amazing. I am curious how the Foie Gras tasted.

  • courtney

    Oh your so lucky. I saw this class but it was way to expensive for me to even consider. The French Pastry School is outstanding. Hopefully time and money will be in more abundance for me to take one of their great seminars.Thisopportunity will have a great impact on your busisness. And you got to got Art Shaws new restaurant. !I hear thats great too.

  • Astrid

    How generous of you to share so much of your experience! I look forward to reading your post in detail.
    I'm curious about his macarons recipe. In one of his books, he uses neither the French nor the Italian meringue method, preferring to keep his beaten egg-whites sugar-free so that "they don't taste of meringue." Is it possible to make Italian-meringue macarons that don't taste sweet? What is the secret?!

  • Kalyn

    What a thrill for you! Very fun and interesting to see all the different varieties. Cannot quite imagine foie gras in macarons, what a combination. But I do believe that he would make it work.

  • MyKitchenInHalfCups

    Veron I am so happy for you! Gosh . . . just incredible! So happy for you. I know you will make the most of it all!
    Thanks so much for the great collection of photos, thanks for sharing it so well.

  • Bella

    Everything looks so yammy! :D

  • peabody

    Again so jealous. But how wonderful for you Veron especially given your delve into the macaron world. Glad you found your voice and finally talked to him. And good for you for asking him why the truffle ones didn't work for you. I think a lot of people would have chickened out telling PH that one of his recipes turned out badly.
    That buffet looked so awesome.

  • Trixy Tran

    WOW. What an opportunity! That looked like an amazing experience, especially with all those macarons! Not to mention Mr. Herme himself, you're one lucky gal. Haha :]

  • Big Boys Oven

    this is so awesomely cool, heaven!

  • Aran

    oh veron… what a great opportunity you had! I am very jealous but so happy that you got to go and learn so much. Fantastic report too… I was waiting anxiously for it.

  • Su-Lin

    All I can say is WOW. I think a buffet of PH goodies is like a dream… and you lived it!

  • T.W. Barritt

    What fun!!! And what beautiful creations!!! I wish I could try the fois gras version. And, what is that blue macaron? That spread is just amazing! As always, you are my hero – what an excellent adventure!

  • Madam Chow

    What an incredible experience! Thanks for blogging about it. All I keep thinking is "wow!"

  • Holly

    How seriously cool is this! Congrats on getting into the class – it looks like it was phenomenal!!

  • Lois!!!

    They look like Krabby Patties!! :D

  • abby

    omg… this is amazing… i just kept grinning (in a silly manner, no doubt) at your photos!!!!! you're so fortunate to be at the class!!!!!

  • MariannaF

    wow, that is super awesome! great photos, great report, you are one lucky person eh!! I guess these are kind of events you can never forget!

  • Patricia Scarpin

    That is just so exciting, Veron!! Yay!!! :)
    I had his passionfruit macarron, and it's wonderful. But the vanilla olive oil won my heart.

  • Lynn

    How awesome! Congrats on your experience. I have never had a Parisian-style macaroon. I hope to try someday.

  • Cakespy

    This was so wonderful to read through, Veron!!!! I am so excited for you–and even more so that you were generous enough to share the experience. It really sounds like one that you won't be forgetting any time soon. I can't wait to see what this might inspire in terms of new developments and items for your business!!

  • Mark P.

    Wow Veron, Im glad you are having so much fun. Pictures taken w/ your new toy? Keep it up,sis!

  • Christy

    Oh Veron, you lucky lucky lucky you!!!!!!!!!!!

  • latifa

    my god veronica, you standing next to the master…..you are one lucky person!

    your post is perfect.

  • Veron

    All – It was indeed quite the experience – one I will treasure forever! PH was mum about opening a shop in the U.S. All he said was that they study each market they open in. The next shop opening is in Dubai.
    Astrid – I think it really depends more on technique than recipe. I need to experiment with the method again.
    Cakespy – I already have several things I want to try. PH said it is important to select the best ingredients. I went out and bought 3 different brands of litchi and 2 different types of rose syrup…the natco brand he uses I cannot find here. I will also attempt to duplicate his foie gras macaron.
    T.W. – it is not a blue macaron but black! That was the black truffle macaron. I did not taste the truffle so much, most like because I ate the foie gras macaron first and that over powered the black truffle.
    Mark – yes I took the pics with my new camera!

  • Lisa

    SIS! 'kay right off the bat, I have to say the last photo is my favorite – you look simply stunning – truly a rose between 2 thorns. :)

    I am so glad you got in.. what a fabulous time you had! The desserts look amazing! I'm still trying to wrap my mind around foix gras macarons.. but if you say they are good then I believe it!

    Hugs sweetie! Love you!
    xoxo

  • Maria

    WOW!! I loved reading about your experience with PH. SO FUN!!

  • Tartelette

    From an interview he gave in a French mag, he said he uses both method equally…here is what I believe: he's got a third secret one for his shops…:) I would not be surprised if he did!! I am so happy you got to go and had such a fantastic time! Right on Sis!!

  • Keving

    Oh, I'm so gealous. I loved reading about your experience.

  • Nora

    WOWWWWW!!!!!!! I am so envious, but also so happy for you! Your time there sounded like so much fun and a terrific experience. I don't even think I would have been able to utter "Bonjour" so I think you did very well there.

    xx nora

  • GingerbreadGirl03

    WOW!!!
    You has been very lucky to know the Picasso de la Pâtisserie!
    And those pastry are amazing to look, who know to eat…

    Un bisou,
    Ginger ~♥

  • Marvin

    Wow Veron! You are very very lucky indeed. I'm sure you will be able to use everything you learned to make your own creations that much better.

  • White On Rice Couple

    Wow!!! What an awesome read and a great series here! We really wish we could be there too, learning from the great master!!
    Thanks for sharing this wonderful experience! We're so inspired too.

  • Julie O'Hara

    I'm so late in commenting, but I wanted to say thanks for sharing your awesome experience. That was so much fun to read, and I loved all the photos!

  • Deborah Dowd

    Veronica! Congratulations,what an incredible experience, and thanks for taking all of us along! We'll be here after your hiatus! Have a great summer.

  • Mehgan

    Hi Veronica! I thought of YOU when I saw these babies while I was shopping online:
    http://www.strapya-world.com/categories/12_1504_4430_4467.html

    I hope you enjoy!

  • Lucy

    I'm so jealous, I'm just obsessed by PH! Any chance you might post a recipe or two, especially the recipe for the emotion ispahan? I had one when I went to Paris recently, and it was the single best thing I've ever eaten in my entire life. Would love to recreate it at home.
    Thanks, and your photos are lovely!

  • roboppy

    Holy crap.

    …Like whoa. That's amazing. Thanks for the great write-up! PH's creations must be the best in the world; ain't nothing else like them. And they look so perfect! I wish he would open a shop in the US. :(

  • Duncan | Syrup&Tang

    As a fellow macaronnier, I am soooo jealous of this experience! Well done!

  • Monique

    What an incredible experience!

  • Parisbreakfasts

    Sooooooo late to comment but never too late for PH!
    Wonderful story!
    Lucky you! and you've made macarons with tartelette too!
    Two masters..awesome
    Thank you
    How did I not hear this was going on :(

  • Jesse

    Wow, thanks so much for sharing that. How neat!

  • Nate

    What a fun experience! I just bought the Pierre Herme Macaron book today in Paris and stumbled upon your blog posting while searching for more info on his macarons … wow, you captured each moment wonderfully. Thanks for sharing – I cannot wait to take my new baking book for a spin. I'm starting by heading to Pierre Herme tomorrow and picking out an assortment of macarons from the book.

  • Sunshinemom

    Wow! Thanks for all these pictures – at least I am convinced that he is a human being now – the Guru:) And how you made my mouth water!!

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